84. Roberto Cavalli

83. Rick Owens

82. Richard Nicoll

81. Riccardo Tisci

100. Zandra Rhodes

99. Zac Posen

98. Yves Saint Laurent

97. Yohji Yamamoto

96. Walter Van Beirendonck

95. Vivienne Westwood

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3. Alexander McQueen

Agnese
Nov 28, 2015
2 min read

Hooligan, icon of English fashion, dramatic, sexual, incredibly brave and magical designer, genius, exceptional, vital, introducer of "bumster" pants, one of the most shocking British fashion designers and couturiers

"I’m a romantic schizophrenic"

Alexander Mcqueen was born in London 1969. At age 16 he started working for tailoring companies such as Savile Row, Anderson & Sheppard and Gieves & Hawkes. Later he also worked with theatrical costume designers Angels and Bermans. His first collection was made in Milan in 1992, working for Romeo Gigli. After receiving his degree at saint Martin's he started his own business, designing clothes for women. He shocked the audience with his ideas and talent. In 1996-2001 he worked for Givenchy but he felt being constrained there. In 2000 Gucci invested in his own Mcqueen company where finally he could excel and became even more successful. In 2003, he got several awards such as International Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America; Most Excellent Commander of the British Empire by the Queen of England,British Designer of the Year honor. His shows were beyond fashion.

1992 GRADUATE COLLECTION

At the Central Saint Martins Graduate show at London Fashion Week in February 1992, McQueen presented a collection inspired by Jack the Ripper’s Whitechapel victims in 1888. Locks of hair were sewn into the clothes. Isabella Blow, then Fashion Assistant to Michael Roberts, Fashion Director of Tatler and The Sunday Times, famously bought the entire collection for £5,000.

Source: http://the-widows-of-culloden.tumblr.com/post/57436589138/alexander-mcqueens-graduation-collection-from

A/W 1993 TAXI DRIVER

Lee’s first collection after graduating Central St. Martin’s was titled “Taxi Driver”, inspireed by the movie of the same name by Martin Scorsese. It was at this first showing of McQueen’s professional work that the infamous 'Bumster’, low rise trousers were shown for the first time.

Nihilism: “Life is without objective meaning, purpose, or intrinsic value.”

Source: book of Judit Watt about Alexander Mcqueen (published in 2012)

Source: http://art-sheep.com/alexander-mcqueens-bumsters-the-fashion-statement-of-the-90s-era/

S/S 1994 NIHILISM

His first ‘official’ collection as a fashion designer presented on Kings Road in London. It was an introduction to McQueen’s philosophical take on fashion design. His concept on Nihilism was visually represented via translucent fabrics; sheer materials. His models were splattered in blood and dirt, wore clothes cut or transparent to expose erogenous zones like breasts and buttocks. McQueen said it was a statement of anti-romanticism.

Source: http://stylejourno.blogspot.hu/2013/11/staged-in-october-1993-nihilism-which.html

A/W 1994 BANSHEE

"You've got to know the rules to break them. That's what I'm here for, to demolish the rules but to keep the tradition." (Alexander Mcqueen)

He drew inspiration from “Irish folklore about banshees who were heard wailing when a boat sank.”

Source: http://the-widows-of-culloden.tumblr.com/post/57727004224/alexander-mcqueen-aw-1994-banshee-in-his

S/S 1995 THE BIRDS

This collection was inspired by the Hitchcock movie. Suits and skirts were printed with bird silhouettes which have reappeared in his 2009 Autumn Winter collection.

Source: http://the-widows-of-culloden.tumblr.com/post/57631402062/alexander-mcqueen-ss-1994-nihilism-nihilism

Spring 1995 Women ready-to wear:

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-1995-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen/slideshow/collection#43

90s videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZukPjq1jKs

100 Fashion Designers